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Plus-Size Sewing 911by Barbara Deckert You Asked? Barbara Deckert Answers! Barbara Deckert is the author of Sewing for Plus Sizes: Design, Fit and Construction for Ample Apparel and Sewing 911: Practical and Creative Rescues for Sewing Emergencies. She has been seen on segments of Sew Much Better, an HGTV sewing show hosted by Susan Khalje. Barbara has also written dozens of articles for national sewing and fashion magazines. She works as a custom dressmaker and has over 30 years of sewing experience.  I can't seem to get the
right fit on any pants that I make. Are there any tricks or tips? I wear
a size 28 but I'm only 5'3" so I always need to shorten the legs, arms
and skirt length. Is there anything special I should know about adapting
a pattern to my plus size petite body? Adjusting patterns for petites
is easy! Just use a tape measure to check all your body lengths, such
as back waist, sleeve, waist to knee,
waist to floor, and so on. Then measure the corresponding areas on your
pattern pieces. Just fold out the extra length wherever needed and tape
the pleat down. Some of us may have long legs but short torsos, or long
torsos and short legs, for example, so be sure to measure! Sewing For
Plus Sizes has a handy chart where you can record all the adjustments
for quick and easy future reference. All these sizes confuse
me. What the difference between a size 18, an 18W and a size 18 1/2? Nowadays in ready-to-wear there
is no consistency whatsoever in sizing. The numbers mean next to nothing.
In pattern sizing, however, they mean something!For a detailed discussion of sizing issues, read the article I wrote for Threads Magazine at the Taunton Press website. I don't sew; but, I'd
like to find a seamstress for alterations and maybe a little dressmaking
for special items. How do I find a good one? How do I know if I'm paying
too much? You're in luck! There is an
army of neighborhood dressmakers waiting to serve you! Check out the
web site of the Professional
Association of Custom Clothiers (PACC), for a free referral to a
dressmaker in your area. Also, read the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
for some great advice about how to choose and work with a dressmaker.About prices: In general, custom clothing should cost more than a similar off-the-rack garment. But, remember that custom clothing is of much finer quality and fit than even every expensive ready-to-wear. For alterations, you can call around and check prices, but often the best alternationists can command higher prices, while the cheapest may be less experienced and may only be skilled enough for the simplest of alterations. You get what you pay for. For custom dressmaking services, call several dressmakers and tell them your budget. If they can work with it, they will. If it is unrealistic, they will say so politely. Remember that someone who is not a member of a professional organization and sews "on the side" may charge less, but her work may not be the quality that you would want to invest in! Webmistress' Note: Barbara has agreed to answer your questions as long as her busy schedule permits! If you have a question on plus size sewing, just email your questions to Barbara. Barbara can't answer individual questions, but she will answer as many as possible here in the GrandStyle.com lounge. |
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Plus-Size Modeling by Catherine Schuller Plus-Size Model Catherine Schuller Talks The Basics About Plus-Size Modeling  On what clients are looking for ...
On developing your look ... On photos and portfolios ...  On contests and modeling schools ... On finding an agency ...
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